“Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for life.” -Lao Tzu
Water is the most basic human necessity. However, while those of us in the US have access to a seemingly endless supply with a simple turn of a faucet, for many others it is a struggle that defines their daily lives. In rural East Africa, for example, water sources are often far removed, and their supply inconsistent, as they are subject to the seasons and increases in population, industry and thus demand for water resources. Even once enough water has been secured there is no guarantee that it is potable. In fact, 1/5 infant mortalities and 70% of all hospital visits in East Africa are caused by waterborne illnesses.
This epidemic has repeated itself generation after generation, ensnaring entire peoples in what has proven to be an otherwise insurmountable cycle of poverty. As parents are often engaged in securing the family income or caretaking, the task of retrieving the water falls to the children. When they should be learning a skill or in a classroom, children find themselves carrying backbreaking loads of the family’s water- up to 44 pounds worth- for miles on sometimes dangerous, desolate roads, returning home physically battered and exhausted. Individually each child suffers; as a whole, the culture continues to lie entrenched and sick in the past.
Water is the bridge to opportunity and the construction of wells in East Africa has shown just how true that is. With a source of close and uncontaminated water the communities are healthier and more capable of sustainable growth. According to Peter Walukamba, Wells of Life Project Officer, “Just days after the well was installed [in the Apac village of Northern Uganda], the number of children in the school increased… to 287 and is expected to increase significantly by the end of the year.” Indeed, school attendance rates have increased , and children receive the chance not only to learn, but also to just be kids. In a life that holds so much that is unstable, the wells have proven themselves to be not only a source of consistency where there had been little before. In the health and safety they afford they offer a foundation for today while at the same time they open the doors to a brighter tomorrow through the broadening of the education experience, among other opportunities.
A well for a village is not a temporary fix but rather the solution that offers a chance of breaking the cycle and opening opportunity beyond a life of sustenance. By addressing and solving this fundamental problem, communities are empowered to address and break the other obstacles which form the chains of poverty. A well is the hope that accompanies good health, the education that spawns a future, the difference between tears of sorrow and tears of joy, and they have already shown their power to do all of this and more.
by MICHAEL STRACHAN
Michael is a Wells of Life Intern. He is a senior at the University of California at Berkeley majoring in History and Environmental Economics & Policy.
In April of this year, National Geographic put out a Special Issue entitled Water: Our Thirsty World. Water covered everything from conservation issues, exotic marine life, water’s sacred role across the globe and of course, something near and dear to us here at Wells of Life: lack of access to clean, safe, disease-free water. The article that touches upon this particular water issue is duly entitled “The Burden of Thirst.” The author, Tina Rosenberg, profiles the lives of some of the millions of women who haul water long distances each day, and discusses the social benefits that a steady, reliable source of clean water can provide for impoverished communities, particularly in sub-Saharan Africa. The photographs, shot by famed photographer Lynn Johnson, are captivating but also demonstrate the extremely harsh reality that most of us in the Western world never witness. In wealthy parts of the world, we turn on faucets and out comes a clean abundant seemingly endless source of fresh water. When we’re thirsty, we head to nearest convenient store and buy a bottle of water. In 2004 alone, US citizens consumed an average of 22 gallons of bottled water per person, according to the Earth Policy Institute. And, the average US household uses 100 gallons of water per day for showers, dishes, sprinklers and other activities. An average family on the continent of Africa uses a mere 5 gallons of water each day. And yet, many women in sub-Saharan Africa carry upwards of 44 pounds of water on their heads to and from a water source each day, walking several miles in between. Local water wells alleviate this task.
I actually had the opportunity to visit Los Angeles’ Annenberg Space for Photography’s live exhibition of National Geographic’s Water in May of 2010, and was assailed by emotions – wonder, frustration, sadness; particularly at the beginning of the exhibit. On display was a large jerry can; a true-to-size-and-weight replica of those used by women and girls around the globe to collect fresh water. Visitors were invited to pick up the jerry can and get a sense of its actual weight. Of course I attempted to do so. I say attempt because as soon as I lifted up the jerry can, the heaviness forcibly urged my body to set it down. I had another visceral reaction upon sensing the heaviness of the can: tears grudgingly welled up in my eyes. No one could possibly bear such weight and for miles on end to boot. And yet, the museum docent explained to me, millions of women and girls do so every day – often strapping additional jerry cans to their backs.
Although the exhibition ended in June, I encourage you to explore National Geographic’s web version of Water: Our Thirsty World:
The photographs and stories beautifully illustrate humanity’s relationship with the one element so fundamental to our existence. They are guaranteed to move you.
Accompanied by Trevor Stevenson–Founder of Fields of Life–
November of 2008
DAY 1
The fine hotel I stayed in last night was Trevor’s way of giving me the gift of a luxurious first night in Africa.
I was totally unprepared for my visit to Burundi. A photo will only show so much. The reality of poverty leaves me grappling for words.
The capital of Burundi is Bujumbura. The VIP lounge was a good indication of the standards to come. The streets were a teeming mass of poor people moving in every direction. The dress is colorful and much is carried on the heads of women.
We drove about ten miles out of town to visit our first school. We might as well have been a presidential contingent for the welcome we received… pure energy all about, drumming to get the heart racing and the smiling faces of children.
At first I found it embarrassing to be on the receiving end of so much attention and outpouring of affection but then I remembered that I am here to represent the many individuals whose generosity makes these schools possible and I took in the affection in trust for all of you.
The eyes and the mind of the developed world are left in a state of total confusion when confronted with the raw and ragged face of this impoverished place. I found myself unable to look for too long at a little boy whose sad face seemed to ask “why?”.
The singing of the children was uplifting and they showed us just how much the gift of their school meant to them. Looking at the 6 foot tall teacher, Anita, I thought to myself this is what service is all about.
We went to our hotel on the shore of Lake Victoria and it was still only 10:30 am in the morning. We were given five minutes to drop our suitcases before beginning our whistle stop barnstorming tour of four countries in ten days. The journey to our next school visit was the most challenging journey I have ever taken…
It seemed as though the hilly countryside of Burundi passed by for hours. We took the journey in a van without air conditioning and drove on tracks that were simply pot holes joined together for miles. The subsistence life of the peasant population made me promise to never complain about anything ever again. Seeing the scores of women living as beasts of burden under the scorching African sun opened my eyes to how many have to live in what seems to me like a very unfair world.
The third school was in a remote area at the end of a twenty mile bone crushing track scrape out of the earth. I was eager to interact with the large group of children. What happened then was totally amazing. The minute I stepped out of the van I was surrounded by a huge group of boys and girls. It was obvious that they had not seen many white men. Their excitement burst forth in an explosion of sound that filled up the valley around us. I imagined how Bono must feel every time he goes out in public. This school provides the only real hope for this entire region. If I could somehow transmit the feeling of gratitude these children exude I believe many of you would be moved to do whatever you had to do to create such a beacon of hope. These children asked me for a soccer ball. I only wish I could have given them one right then and there.
It’s now mid afternoon and we are on our way to visit another school. I will wrap up for now by saying that this is only my first day and I feel my heart is already filled with gratitude as I am able to play a small part in bringing hope to these deserving people. I think a warm shower and a cold beer will be elevated to a whole new level once we make it back through the 60 miles of torture trail we had to travel to get here.
DAY 2
Day 2 began before 5am for me. While Trevor and his team made yet another visit after we had an early supper at 5, I figured a good night’s sleep would serve me well if I was to stick the pace of day 1.
Burundi is just reawakening from a 14 year civil war. It’s like a country that bears all the scars of a vicious street brawl. The economy seems almost entirely made up of subsistence farming. People farm without any mechanization. They haul, drag and carry items on either side of the dirt roads.
By the time we arrived to visit school #5, I was coming to terms with the terrain and the condition of the roads. I’m still amazed by the huge amount of people who carry their produce to town using their bicycles. It’s a sight to see them flying down hilly grades at death defying speeds laden down with bananas and other types of produce. This is a densely populated country with 81 percent living below the poverty level.
Hope school is still in the early stages as is the kitchen and staff housing. It is part of a large compound that has an orphanage. Visiting orphans is an experience that moved me greatly. Looking at the faces of these little innocent children I immediately think of my own two little ones. It’s moving in a way I cannot describe. I know it brings home the true blessing of knowing that we can change this situation by taking simple and measurable steps to bring hope to these little ones.
My lasting thought was how much it will mean to my sons to see first hand what they are a part of.
Our next school is only one and a half hours away. This school is being officially handed over today in an elaborate ceremony. Providing a school is akin to providing a door into the future. A future that beacons with hope for the many who welcome it for the miracle it is.
I feel fortunate to be teamed with this group of people. I am learning from them that service is about being willing to risk as well as putting your own personal requirements second. The work is so powerful that the sacrifice becomes part of the reward.
The final event of day 2 was the opening ceremony. The journey there was another two hours each way. Not having eaten since our 6am breakfast my tummy wanted to make a serious protest but this team would not have entertained it.
The site for this secondary school was carved out of a steep hillside. It inspired awe at the sheer will and determination of Fields of Life mission to serve those most in need. The ceremony was very moving. The children sang and danced and the speeches were long. You could see that this day would be memorialized by high ceremony. I do not think I have felt a single moment of worry or concern since I arrived in Africa. The work I feel blessed to be a small part of leaves no space for any doubt or worry.
Its getting late in the day and I will be very glad of a bite to eat once we finally get to our hotel. Tomorrow will give us a break from the travel as we are guests of the President of Burundi at the Presidential Palace.
The funds you have so generously donated are making the most difference for good and I want you to know that you have changed more lives than you will ever know.
DAYS 3 TO 5
We departed Burundi before 8am and headed across the mountains on our way to the border. There was not a single straight stretch of road and we wound our way through the patchwork of tilled mountainsides. Every inch is under cultivation and this sight stretches out as far as the eye can see.
We arrived in Kigali (Capital of Rwanda) in just under seven hours without any food stops. I have learned to grab whatever I can from breakfast to tide me over on such journeys. The contrast between Burundi and Rwanda could not be more evident. Rwanda has pulled itself up by its boot straps after almost imploding under the dark shadows of genocide. The roadside memorials are a stark reminder of these dark days when one million people were slaughtered by what can only be described as the forces of utter depravity and insanity.
The roads reflect the new vision for the future. It is neat and tidy and manicured roadsides greet the visitor. Arriving into the bustling capital is when I saw my first traffic light. We stayed in a small hotel overlooking the city. I could have happily gone to bed but of course there was a dinner meeting pre-arranged with a senior minister of the cabinet.
What has impressed me the most is the level at which FOL (Fields of Life) operates at. In every country it has operated in connection with the full cooperation and collaboration with the government.
The minister gave us a comprehensive account of what is happening not only in Rwanda but throughout East Africa. Although there are many challenges (reports arrive to us daily about the fighting in the Congo) there are many good things occurring as well. It was exciting to be in this high level of communication with those who currently shape the future of Africa.
We were asked to meet with the minister of Education at 7:30am this morning and were told that this man is one of the main architects of Rwanda’s future.
Sleep has fallen substantially in my order of priorities (most of you know of my great ability to sleep). The days I have spent here in Africa have been the most meaningful days of late. When Trevor invited me to see firsthand the work that Fields of Life is doing, I could not have imagined the effect it would have on me. Driving to the Department of Education building we saw firsthand the new development bursting into life. New state of the art buildings were everywhere. It was an impressive sight indeed.
What was also impressive was the fact the business begins at 7am. The zeal of the president, Paul Kagame to stamp out corruption sends a powerful message from the very top. We were ushered in promptly at 7:30am to meet with the minister. This well dressed minister literally blew us away in the hour we spent with him. He laid out the president’s vision for Rwanda. To summarize his vision into one word, it is to invest heavily in education. Their plans are to be the leading light of Africa by 2020.
This man has all the connections to make this possible. He has been to L.A, hung out with Quincy Jones and received many requests from US companies to set up business in Kilgali. It was refreshing to hear such a positive view after my three days in Burundi.
I could not help but note that this city offers opportunities a plenty from a business perspective. When the minister laid out a blueprint for a University to be built by an Oklahoma university we could see just how the progress was taking shape.
I was glad for Trevor’s sake to see the work of Fields of Life in Rwanda being wrapped into the vision for the future. I know that is what keeps this work alive, the belief that investing in education is the only way to grow the leadership from the cradle to the halls of political influence.
In many respects I have already witnessed the entire life cycle of what Fields of Life has been able to do. This of itself fuels the passion to do the challenging work these selfless people do. In every way, everyday ends with the powerful realization that you are effecting change in people’s lives, providing hope and truly changing the world.
We are closing in on today’s main event, the opening of the school (Hope Primary School), underwritten by two brothers from Ireland. This will be our 6th school visit. All of a sudden the three hour journey doesn’t feel like any big deal at all.
DAYS 6 & 7
Today is Thanksgiving and I will celebrate it on the road in Uganda. We are traveling to Kampala, the Capital. My last account stopped before we attended the opening of Hope primary school. This being my second school opening I knew what to expect. Once again this school was in a very poor area.
The list of important leaders that are present for this kind of event is impressive. The singing and dancing is so powerful and everyone is thanked and acknowledged for their role in allowing this happen. We were presented with gifts from the local community.
Our accommodation overlooked a lake and was a stones throw from the Congo border. We heard the rebels were active only ten miles away. One of the most difficult things to get used to in the third world is that dining can be a real series of surprises. Sometimes the menu items even require a trip to market by bicycle. With the long days of travel we arrive at the table famished with hunger. This night was a real challenge as the waiter felt we might eat him and he retreated into the kitchen out of sight. A bowl of soup never tasted so good when it arrived two hours later!
DAY 6
Day 6 dawned and I knew it was one that everyone was dreading. We traveled across the Ugandan border and to our destination at Fort Portal. The longest road trip I have ever traveled was to San Francisco. That included multiple stops and plenty of food stops. We departed at 7:30am and arrived in Fort Portal at 8pm. We had a delay while crossing the border and stopped once for a case of water and a quick bite of food. Of the 500 plus kilometer journey we may have had 150 miles of tarmac potholed road the rest was winding dirt tracks with ruts big enough to hide an elephant.
This Fields of Life team is the best company a man could ever want. They operate like a trained army unit moving forward all the time. The stories and the laughter passed the hours as we saw the Ugandan tea fields pass by.
The highlight of the journey was traveling through a game preserve. The baboons acted like customs inspectors, coming right up to our vehicle and peering knowingly into it. In a moment I will not forget we came across a massive African Elephant not ten feet away from us. He was really majestic looking.
When we arrived in Fort Portal, Evelyn Komuntale had dinner prepared for us. We enjoyed a home cooked meal but nobody wanted to sit down. Fort Portal is Evelyn’s home town and she was very excited that we had come to visit the Paul Devlin Academy.
I was so glad to find a comfortable bed that the Fields of Life director, Kennedy Nkolenta, had arranged for us. The mountains of the Moon Hotel are a place I could easily have stayed at for a week, but once again our day began before 7am.
Finally, I visited one of the schools I had come to Africa to see on your behalf. I have formed the habit of spending a few minutes outside to greet the African dawn and collect my thoughts and be thankful for the wonderful experience I am having here. This morning I reflected on the weeks we spent raising the funds for the Devlin School. My thoughts kept turning to those of you who made sure this school became a reality. The challenges we faced were pale in comparison to how proud I felt this morning to be able to celebrate our achievements. This school will outlast all of us… and that my friends is what makes a difference.
We joined Evelyn and followed the windy road to the site of the school.
What I saw next brought tears to my eyes.
Perched on a hillside the Paul Devlin Academy overlooks the Mountains of the Moon that separate Uganda from Congo. The breeze blew gently and the peaceful silence seemed to pay its respect to Paul’s life. I can tell every one of Paul’s family that you would be very proud to see what Fields of Life has built. One of the biggest schools Fields of Life has ever built; it will soon be at the center of a campus that will include dormitories, medical clinic and sports fields.
I cannot tell you how proud I am to observe this life changing work. The buzz of excitement among the visitors creates what I can only refer to as inspirational energy. The fulfillment of a dream raises awareness to a new level and directs our attention to press on in this work.
When Evelyn came to me three years ago with her dream to create a place of learning for the children of her town, I could see how deeply committed she was to holding on to that dream. You have all made that dream a reality by your generosity.
The elements that confluence to bring this dream to reality are the stuff that dreams are made of. I don’t think you could dream this up…People in Laguna Beach joining with an Irish Organization (Fields of Life) and an African Princess who needed help joining to create a living memorial to an Irishman whose life made such a difference… Ahh that is worth all the wear and tear on my body.
There was one surprise arranged for me that left me feeling very touched and moved. My boys Manus and Patrick have an adopted brother and sister here in Africa. Trevor and Aileen are sponsored through Outreach to Africa. Before departing today Evelyn arranged to have our children brought two hours from where they live to meet me. It was a surprise that I felt honored to receive. I promised both of them that I will bring my boys to meet them.
With that exciting morning under our belts we said goodbye to Fort Portal and began another long (5+ hours) to Kampala.
I wish you all a peaceful Thanksgiving. I feel blessed to be able to spend mine here in Africa.
DAY 8
The journeys end….
Today marked the end of a long journey. We left Kampala early before seven in a vain attempt to beat the morning traffic. Traffic is not a good way to describe the rolling mass of transportation vying for what must surely be the poorest excuse for a road I have yet seen. Driving requires skills I could never acquire.
We arrived at our first school, The David and Mary Young School. Every location is different and what made this very remarkable was the journey through thousands of acres of sugar cane. All of a sudden the schools become visible like a great oasis at the crest of a hill. Lake Victoria is visible behind it in the distance. This school has matured with lovely landscaping and is so well kept that it boasts of the great pride the teachers have in their school. We were greeted by the children outside ready to sing for us. We spent an hour there listening to the many stories of how children have achieved some of the highest grades in the surrounding area. This school also benefits from one of the 46 wells we have been able to drill through Wells of Life. The joy on the faces of the women who are spared the 5km walk was very evident.
I could hardly contain myself as we traveled to the site of what will become The Joan Jordan School. I must admit this site has been sitting in my minds eye for a long time now. I wondered what it will be like, what will the children look like when we finally arrive. I’m sure its no coincidence but the children were wearing green uniforms when we arrived. The site was specially chosen at my request to be close to a medical center. My sister was a nurse and I felt she would really feel very connected to a school that had access to her beloved profession.
What I have come to know is that Fields of Life goes out of its way to organize the many tedious details that go into making a school work well. The builders were on site waiting for the corner brick to be laid so they could continue the work towards completion in the rigorous 16 week time frame it takes to deliver a school. The bricks were waiting in large mountains, all made by hand.
With a very large and excited group looking on I took my trowel in hand and laid that corner brick firmly in place. A thousand thoughts rushed through my head coupled with all the emotions that could fit into my very proud heart. I can sum it all up by simply saying that I thought it was the most beautiful way for Joan to be remembered.
We toured the site and saw the location for the Jeff and Mary Sewell well and the location of the teacher housing. Finally we spent time at the current school house. When you see the pictures you will see what I mean. A shack covered in sticks and loose hay, the most desolate looking building prone to flooding. In one moment we could plainly see the leap of faith these amazing people had taken when they pleaded for the gift of a new school. We played soccer with the children before saying goodbye to the school site with over twenty bricklayers busily making progress.
We were almost finished with our long tour of schools but the last school proved to be the most memorable surprise.
The first school you helped Fields of Life create four years ago was The Tom and Margaret Carroll School. I was not prepared for the ceremony that awaited. I was the guest of honor at a ceremony that would do justice for a head of state. For two and a half hours we enjoyed the singing I have come to love as well as the most inspirational and moving speeches. We left this school in a complete state of euphoria knowing that over the past ten days we had witnessed what will move Africa into a place of success and leadership as a result of education. I have only moments to say goodbye as my driver is waiting patiently to take me to Entebbe airport. This is certainly not goodbye as I know deep down I have received more from Africa than I could ever give it. It’s a good feeling to take with me.
